If you are tired of dull, lifeless and flaky skin and want glowing and rejuvenated skin, exfoliation may be our solution.
Exfoliation is the process of removing dead skin cells and debris off the top layer of the skin.
By doing so, many skin benefits are gained such as glowing skin, reduced fine lines and wrinkles, unclogged pores and skin care products can work effectively.
Chemical exfoliation uses specific chemicals and acids that are applied to the area that needs to be exfoliated. This is usually on the face. These chemicals and acids gently break down the bonds between the skin cells and help loosen up the dead cells and debris. This makes it easier to simply wipe away the impurities from the skin.
There are many different chemicals that can be used on the face to help with this process. Each have their own unique chemical make up and benefit to the skin, but they all serve one main purpose, to get rid of dead skin cells and debris. Their differences lie in their uses.
Chemical exfoliation can offer more dramatic results than physical exfoliation. A lot of the time, a dermatologist can prescribe them to you, but some chemical exfoliants can be found in drug stores or beauty stores.
Chemical exfoliants can be found in some of the products your already use such as:
- Toners
- Cleanser
- Peels
- Scrubs
- Moisturizers
It can be overwhelming trying to understand the difference between the different types of chemical exfoliants and the ingredients that make them work. But here are a few popular ones that can help you choose which is best for you.
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Types of Chemical Exfoliants
Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
AHAs are a group of water-soluble acids that come from sugary fruit. They can help dissolve the dead skin cells and debris off the surface of your skin to allow new skin cells to show through and offer an even skin tone.
When dead skin cells are removed often, it triggers the skin to continuously regenerate new skin cells to take their place. In other words, cell turnover increases.
Depending on your skin type, AHAs may help those who suffer from enlarged pores, uneven skin tone, mild hyperpigmentation such as age spots, melasma and scars, fine lines and wrinkles.
Popular AHAs
- Lactic acid found in milk and pickled veggies
- Malic acid from apples
- Tartaric acid found in grapes
- Glycolic acid from sugar cane
- Citric acid found in citrus fruit
Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)
Beta hydroxy acids are oil soluble and can go deep into hair follicles to dry out excess oil, dead skin cells and unclog pores. They are considered a light chemical peel and are primarily used to treat acne and sun damage.
Salicylic acid is one of the most common BHAs and is known to treat acne. It can also help reduce general redness and inflammation and is known to actually digest dead skin cells chemically.
Retinoids
Retinoids are primarily used to treat sun damaged skin, minimize the signs of aging and to treat acne. They are derived from vitamin A and work by protecting the skin from free radicals and to promote collagen production.
Common Retinols
- Retinol
- Alitretinoin
- Tretinoin
- Adapalene
Enzymes
Comprised of amino acids, enzymes are a type of protein made by living things. They work at a slower pace than acids to break down the keratin protein in the upper layer of the skin. This softens the bonds of the dead skin cells. Without this bond holding them together, dead skin can be easily removed.
Most enzymes come from fruit and vegetables like pineapple, papaya and pumpkin. They are much more gentle way of exfoliating and can be beneficial to those with sensitive skin and pregnant women. They are a great choice for those who find acids too strong but still want to achieve beautiful glowing skin.
They aren’t the best at dissolving oil, so if that is your main focus, you may want to choose another option for exfoliating. Salicylic acid based products may be best for that.
What’s Best for My Skin?
Everyone has different skin types and each of the main 5 skin types need to be cared for differently. Some products won’t work for certain skin types, while some products may be too harsh for others. Here is a simple guideline to getting started with chemical exfoliation for your skin type.
Sensitive Skin
People with sensitive skin usually have a reduced tolerance to the application of cosmetics and personal care products. They are subjective to symptoms such as stinging, itching or burning that mainly relate to the skin on the face. People with this skin type can also develop frequent rashes and can be prone to breakouts.
BHAs are typically less irritating and may be best for sensitive skin. They may also benefit from enzymes.
Normal Skin
Normal skin is often referred to as well-balanced skin. The t-zone area may be a little oily, but overall, sebum and moisture is well balanced. The skin is neither too oily nor too dry.
Those with normal skin can try any chemical exfoliant without any adverse effects. It will really come down to personal preference.
Dry Skin
People with dry skin tend to lack moisture on the skin and can have a feeling of tightness. Skin can be rough, itchy and flaky. In severe cases, skin may even crack due to extreme dryness.
Those with dry skin may benefit from AHAs like glycolic acid which can break through the surface layer. Glycolic acid also has water-attracting properties that can help add moisture back to the skin.
Oily Skin
Excess oil on the face can produce a persistently shiny or greasy appearance which is categorized as oily skin. Pores are easily clogged and enlarged, blackheads, pimples and other types of acne are common.
BHAs are best suited for those with oily skin. Salicylic acid can go deep inside pores and take out trapped oil and dirt and can keep your pores clean.
Combination Skin
Combination skin is defined as having oily skin in some areas of the face and dry skin in other areas of the face. Usually, the T-zone (forehead, nose and chin) are the oiliest parts of the face.
Choosing products with glycolic acid can be beneficial. Glycolic acid can be broadly used across all the skin types.
When Should I Exfoliate?
Choosing how often you exfoliate your skin depends on your skin type and the exfoliant you are using. For oily skin, glycolic acid will most likely be used and can opt to exfoliate daily if need be. For other skin types, and AHAs, you may want to exfoliate only once or twice a week due to the power of the exfoliant. You may need to give your skin a break in between sessions to let it heal.
Listen to your skin. That is the best advice I can give. If your skin looks and feels dull, it’s most likely time to exfoliate.
If you’re new to chemical exfoliation, start slow. Start by exfoliating once a week and increase the number of times you exfoliate from week to week. If skin becomes irritated, dry or red, dial it back some. Over time, you will find the sweet spot of your exfoliation routine.
If your skin usually appears dull in the morning, you may want to exfoliate in the morning for a youthful appearance. Be sure to apply sunscreen if going out in the sun. You can exfoliate at night which can help remove excess makeup and debris from the day. The choice is yours on what time of day you want to exfoliate.
No matter what product you use, you want to avoid exfoliating if you have open cuts or wounds on the skin.
Paula’s Choice- Liquid Duo-Facial Exfoliants
Naturium Glycolic Acid Resurfacing Gel
ELEMIS Papaya Enzyme Peel
Chemical Exfoliator Precautions
Chemical exfoliants can pose their own problems. Always read and follow the directions on the labels carefully. Avoid overusing the product as injuries and irritations can happen. If you are using a product for the first time, preform a patch test to ensure no allergic reactions occur.
Speak to your doctor or dermatologist if you are unsure on which product to use, if you have questions about chemical exfoliants, if you are taking medication or if you have any underlying issues. Some chemical exfoliants can be affected and can affect the way certain medications work.
Summing It Up
Chemical exfoliants are a great way to exfoliate the skin if done and used correctly. There are different types of exfoliants and some work better on some skin types over the next. When choosing your exfoliant, keep in mind the medications you are currently taking and your skin type to ensure you are getting the best out of your products.
What chemical exfoliants have you tried? Let us know in the comments below!
Disclaimer: This content is for informational and educational purposes only. It is not intended to provide medical advice or to take the place of such advice or treatment from a personal physician. Neither Self Verve nor the publisher of this content takes responsibility for possible health consequences of any person or persons reading or following the information in this educational content. Be sure to contact your physician before trying any of the items stated in the above article.
